(Texto español abajo) When I first set foot in Spain some 20 years ago, I was irretrievably smitten. It was as if I finally found home, a place where my heart and soul felt completely at ease, happy. I still love Spain with the same intensity, even though things have changed since then, mostly for the worse. My son Carlos (a Sevillano!) tells me that I see the country through rose-coloured glasses, uncritical of its faults. He may be right, but that’s what you do when you’re

(Texto español abajo) Yesterday and the day before we ventured into a tiny village in the mountains of Ronda. We can't name the village because its inhabitants have all been declared criminals a few weeks ago: they engage in a highly illegal activity, which is growing and consuming organic, natural food that they've been growing and consuming for centuries... The trouble is that this gloriously home-grown and loved produce is not certified by the government. It's difficult to